Koi Kawa Japanese Restaurant and Sushi Bar on Broadway creates the most palatable palette of sushi this side of the San Antonio River — unless you're looking for atmosphere, which clearly is the domain of Niki's Tokyo Inn. But back to Koi Kawa: Choice cuts of chilled tuna, mackerel, salmon, shrimp, squid, and octopus rest delicately upon lightly vinegared beds of sticky white rice, or are skillfully tucked into rice and rolled in crisp skins of seaweed. In a delicious display of sushi chef artistry, mouthwatering medleys of avocado, cucumber, green onion, and smelt eggs meld with raw seafood for a refreshingly fresh fish dish. For all the simplicity of sushi, Koi Kawa complicates flavors beautifully with specialty rolls. - Wendi Kimura