Us: “So is the wait any shorter now that the expansion is complete?”
Waiter: “No, the lines are as long as ever.”
Us: “Kinda like opening new lanes on an expressway…”
Waiter (distracted by a nearby table): “I’ll be right with you…”
Dough, in its long-awaited expanded form, is open for business, and it’s more of the same. If you had hoped, as I did, that the addition of a wine bar might offer a haven for the exploration of their exemplary, Italian wine list, think again: The bar is tiny, tight and felt purgatorial reasonably early on a Tuesday night. (Note to self: try afternoon.) But at least we were told there would be a 45-minute wait, and it ended up more like 10—not even time to finish a glass of wine.
Plus, the food has not suffered as a result of the expansion. In fact, it may even be better.
Avoiding any dish with an “as seen on the Food Network” tag, the re-entry began with a plate of house-pulled burrata, prosciutto di San Daniele, olive oil and a generous basket of seductively charred Pugliese bread. Burrata may be on the downside of its moment, and the center of ours could have been creamier, but the dish was otherwise exemplary.
Outright raves are due the sausage and peppers dish listed under Antipasti & Cicchetti (small snacks). The addition of red grapes adds a genial touch of sweetness, and the balsamic glaze ties the whole thing together. Brava!, too, for the mista salad; there’s something almost conspiratorial about being able to incorporate the sopressata, ceci beans, semi-dried tomatoes and more into the leafy mix at will—and the judicious vinaigrette is masterful.
In deference to Naples, those wines we weren’t able to finish at the bar were both produced by Campania’s Rocca del Dragone—the appealing falanghina with hints of almond and melon, and the aglianico, layered with vanilla, cherry, spice and mocha. Our full bottle, the DigiOr Piedirossa Campania Pompeiano, started out with a touch of funk but it may simply have been a characteristic of this ancient grape, cultivated since before the destruction of Pompeii in 79 AD. While the light but cherry-scented wine might not stand up to the sweaty torsos and ash-dusted bosoms of Pompeii, the latest historical disaster flick, it was fine with the fontina, mushroom and caramelized onion pizza.
Had we been waiting for our pie before escaping an angry volcano, we would have been toast, but service was otherwise extremely swift and competent. And this pizza, one I’d previously appreciated for its perfect balance of ingredients, didn’t disappoint—especially as it escapes the sometimes-soggy center of the tomato-based pies. Dessert wasn’t offered (I hope they still have the excellent olive oil cake) but none was needed.
The Skinny The lines are as long as before in the newly expanded Dough, but the pizzas and their partners are as good as ever. Have a glass of wine and chill.
Best bets Just pick your favorite pizza (Pork Love or fontina and mushrooms, for example) and pair it with any app from roasted olives to any of several mozzarella concoctions.
Hours 11am-9pm Mon-Thur; 11am-10pm Fri-Sat; noon-9pm Sun
Price Pizzas $10-$22
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