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Better yet is local franchise Sea Island Shrimp House, which combines the easygoing, devil-may-care-about-the-upholstery ethos of fast food with crispy fried shrimp and a few grown-up fish dishes. The new location at Bandera Road and Loop 1604 is big and loud and lacks the circa 1965 charm of the Rector shack, but it's also informal and cheerful. -Elaine Wolff

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