After a good meal, the memory of a perfectly sautéed fish or breathtaking dessert, for instance, can linger in my mind for days. But when I have good barbeque? That remains with me in a more sensory way. I’m talking about the smoke. A good barbeque will infuse my clothes, my hair, and even my sauce-stained fingers. It doesn’t go away easily, nor would I want it to.
I wondered what barbecue would taste like from a local chef who had certainly earned his chops in everything from fine dining to tapas. While Jason Dady’s Two Brothers didn’t overwhelm me with over-the-top flavor, it got under my skin with its offering of simple smoked meats and an atmosphere that invites you to pick and gnaw at the sheer savoriness of slow-smoked barbecue.
Two Brothers offers fresh sliced brisket, chopped beef, pork sausage, pork loin, and chicken thighs, as well as two kinds of ribs. Traditional pork and cherry-glazed baby backs, a handful of sides, and some appetizers round out the menu. The best deal on the menu was the “Grab and Go BBQ Pack” that come with an assortment of meats, sides, and bread to sop up the juices and sauce. It’s all served on butcher paper (think Rudy’s) and accompanied by a pickle and jalapeno bar that spices everything up. Some homemade spicy pickles added a nice pop to the brisket. There’s a smattering of picnic tables out back and a huge outdoor playscape providing the ideal place for parents to kick back. No chasing kids through a busy restaurant here.
It’s not something you see on many local barbecue menus, but the pork butt is something that shouldn’t be missed. Its rich natural flavor, coupled with simple seasonings to brighten it up, makes the porky chunks perfect for stuffing in between slabs of white bread and for squirting with one of three sauces: regular, spicy, or sweet.
The only misstep was the creamed corn: the over-cooked corn and cream had suspiciously parted ways, the cream gliding off the kernels and leaving a soupy mess. I prefer to have some of the corn blended into the cream and livened up with a couple of grinds of black pepper to break up the rich sweetness. The other side we tried, mac and cheese, had a nice balance that wasn’t overly mushy.
The place also boasts homemade desserts from cobblers to a “Purple Cow” (a grape soda ice cream float). But the one that really caught my eye was the Moon Pie. It’s not made in house, but who can resist the gooey marshmallowy yummyiness of this southern classic? It goes down best with the sounds of giggling kids digging in the sand box and grownups relaxing with a cold beer as the familiar smoky smell of a family barbecue fills the air.
Two Bros. BBQ Market
12656 West Ave
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