Latin American in San Antonio

Empanada aficionados can breathe a sigh of relief: Beto's is back. Torta fanciers, on the other hand, are pissed. On the streamlined menu that accompanied Beto's move to scaled-down quarters up Broadway a piece from the previous location, the south-of-the-border subs are absent, and their vocal partisans have made management amply aware of their displeasure. Lay off, guys: Tortas, we're told, will be back. But nobody seems to be complaining about the missing platos. Roasted chicken, grilled whole fish, Beto's Mixed Grill are also AWOL, victims of the pared-down (but definitely not down-and-out) mindset that characterizes the new location. There is a new enthusiasm: Symbolic of tenant-landlord discord, an office building is said to soon be going up in Beto's old backyard. The current backyard, reclaimed from a parking lot and casually landscaped, is utterly anti-office in its laid-back demeanor. This is the place to chill, even in the heat. A mojito won't hurt at other times, despite, or perhaps because of, its reduced rum content.;- Ron Bechtol

At the 45th anniversary of the Cuban Revolution, America's frigid foreign policy with the Carribbean island has barely changed. Despite Americans' demand for the country's rich and eclectic culture - and for all things Cuban - Americans are forbidden to spend money in Cuba, and the embargo has prevented Cuban products from legally entering the United States. At least one of the island's treasures - the Cuban sandwich - can be found at a few locations in San Antonio. La Marginal truthfully declares itself as having the "Best Cuban Sandwiches" on its window, in glass paint that mimics the hand-drawn styles of Cuban particular (semi-private) shops. The interior is a refreshing mix of 1950s colors, with seats of bright teal, and walls adorned with images from the former Spanish bastion.;- Abraham Mahshie