Mexican in San Antonio

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    Jacala may be San Antonio's oldest family-owned restaurant, but it's not sentimentality that keeps people coming back for the standard Mexican fare. The food is inexpensive and filling. While the trompe l'oeil bricks and ivy summon visions of eating along the River Walk rather than West Avenue, the entrees are strictly tourist grade. - John Brewer
    There is a certain baseline set of components essential to the quality of a Mexican restaurant in San Antonio, and they are few indeed. Tortillas, beans, and salsa are the Holy Trinity - nutritionally and culturally; all the rest is gravy. James' Café, Cantina, Patio, etc. has taken over the space at East Woodlawn and North St. Mary's - most famously occupied by Café Camille - and the Manet-like mural that distinguished the rear dining room of this Topsy-like compound has been minimally Mexified to suit the new theme. In the front parlor, colors have been vivified as well, and a tortilla-making station has been installed; at peak times, two tortilleras are busily engaged in patting and rolling out corn and flour tortillas. Even before you find a seat in the jumble of tables, this is a positive sign. - Ron Bechtol

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