Danish in San Antonio

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    Innocence is not dead, y'all. Not only have rumors of its demise been greatly exaggerated, but this Eisenhower-era quality — along with its cohorts honesty, simplicity, and openness — might be about to stage a comeback. And not a moment too soon — assuming that Swede's sandwich shop is something more than a temporary anomaly in a time of tension, that is. ;With the exception of Volvo, the Swedish import most of us are familiar with, alas, is ABBA; forget that. Swede's, a squeaky-clean place with pale yellow walls, natural wood chairs and tables, and Old World memorabilia on prominent display, is the quintessence of mom and pop (plus the kids and grandparents, too, if I have this straight) — not perky pop. Although it hasn't been in operation that long, the lunchtime crowd already seems like family, too. The menu — excluding raspberry vinaigrette (let's peg that one in the late '70s) and maybe chipotle mayonnaise — is a relic of kinder, gentler times. Just titled in Swedish.;- Ron Bechtol



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