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Nearly a barbecue pit, Mr. and Mrs. G's teaches San Antonio a thing or two about home cooking. It may be the desserts, made every morning by Mrs. G, that account for the reported euphoria that comes after downing a plate of grub that is, honestly, lip-smackingly good. It's high-calorie, straight-up soul food - not a new take on or interpretation of the tasty stuff. Mr. and Mrs. G's is, was, and always will be a letter-perfect rendering of things fried and boiled: The vegetables are soft and watery - but flavored with bits of ham and onion; the meat can be fatty or smothered in gravy (How else could ham hocks and steak - in that order - be served?); and the choice of bread is a flaky biscuit or cornbread muffin. - John Brewer
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