Chisme Y Chicle

The space vacated by the late, lamented Luca (co-owned by the husband of Current Editor Elaine Wolff) in the Fairmount Hoteldidn’t languish for long — and it won’t change much visually in its new incarnation.

“It’s just what we need,” says Chef Jason Dady, whose restaurants include The Lodge, Bin 555, Tre Trattoria, and 2 Bros. BBQ Market. Restaurant Insignia’s menu will be an amalgam of “American cuisine with worldly inspiration and Texas roots ... whatever is inspiring me at the moment.” 

Insignia will offer a full bar with creative cocktails and snacks to match: a selection of small-plate appetizers that can be combined for a light dinner, and entrées such as lobster enchiladas, a riff on chicken and waffles, barbecued salmon from the wood-burning oven, a San Antonio pizza with barbacoa, no less … there was even loose talk about a bone-marrow pudding with toasted brioche. OK, this may not turn everybody on the way it does me, but I’ll be there as soon after opening day (sometime before the end of October, TABC permitting) as possible, just to give it a try. If you can’t wait, Dady does a variation on the marrow theme at Bin 555.

— Ron Bechtol