The San Antonio-style gordita, when you can find it, is most often a fairly thick disk of griddled masa slit horizontally and stuffed with, say, stewed chicken. The models that emerge from La Doña’s open kitchen are much more delicate, little thicker than a classy, hand-patted corn tortilla. Sometimes they’re up to containing the filling, sometimes not, but with upwards of 20 options — not counting breakfast — to choose from, the fastidious can always find a well-behaved fatty–filler.

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