Fusion was first and formerly a chain noodle palace of the around-the–world-in-80-pastas sort. (I made up the 80 part, OK?) “It didn’t catch on,” we were told. So the next logical step, right?, was for the chef and part-owner, from Mexico City, to turn to fusion of a more straightforward sort: mahi-mahi with cilantro hollandaise, rib eye with chipotle demi-glaze — that sort of thing. Oh, and to add a kind of vestigal wine bar in one corner.

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