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There is a certain baseline set of components essential to the quality of a Mexican restaurant in San Antonio, and they are few indeed. Tortillas, beans, and salsa are the Holy Trinity - nutritionally and culturally; all the rest is gravy. James' Café, Cantina, Patio, etc. has taken over the space at East Woodlawn and North St. Mary's - most famously occupied by Café Camille - and the Manet-like mural that distinguished the rear dining room of this Topsy-like compound has been minimally Mexified to suit the new theme. In the front parlor, colors have been vivified as well, and a tortilla-making station has been installed; at peak times, two tortilleras are busily engaged in patting and rolling out corn and flour tortillas. Even before you find a seat in the jumble of tables, this is a positive sign. - Ron Bechtol

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