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There ought to be a statute of limitations for posting reviews in restaurants; unlike evaluations of movies or books, there is a relatively short shelf life for these transitory treatises. A good case in point is Mesón European Dining. Upon entering the restaurant recently, I noticed a review I had written years ago for the San Antonio Express-News still prominently posted in the window; on leaving, I paused to read it. The surprise was twofold: I was reminded that the menu hadn't changed much in the intervening seven or so years; and I had automatically ordered many of the same things the second time around. One of us has got to get a life. Here is where it gets sticky: Some of the comments - both pro and con - still apply. (So much for the transformative power of criticism.) But whereas I found Mesón to be charmingly retro in the mid-'90s, it now seems merely stodgy - with some exceptions, to be sure. - Ron Bechtol

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