Support Local Journalism, Join the SA Current Press Club.

Restaurant Gwendolyn: A first date 

Chef Michael Sohocki, the Weissman alum that has taken over the old Le Rêve space downtown, is nothing if not sincere about his pledge to serve only product available within a 150-mile radius of San Antonio. Yes, he’ll have no bananas — or Chilean sea bass, Maine lobsters, Australian lamb, Burgundian wines … oh, wait: wines are excepted.

We applaud his zeal but wonder if sincerity is sufficient — or is it suicidal, at least in San Antonio? Apparently interest has been sufficient for him to expand from a small, lunch-only menu to dinner service based on three-, five-, and maybe even seven-course tastings, a format made necessary, explained Sohocki, by the sometimes-limited availability of appropriate product. The names of producers are included on the menu; fortunately, we aren’t also treated to the name of the creature that will adorn our plate — in this case, a first-look luncheon order of seared chicken breast with lentils from Peeler Family Farm.

The menu is said to change daily, but the chicken dish has apparently been on the lunch menu since the beginning — though it may rotate off and on. Was it more wonderful than a less regionally restricted fowl (Sohocki also locally sources duck and smokes it himself)? Not notably — but it was expertly prepared and served atop soupy lentils flavored with a meticulous brunoise that matched the legumes in size. The house’s milk bread was appealing in a nostalgic way, too. In the long run, though, the food will have to match conceptual purity with culinary excitement. The dinner menu may fulfill that promise. We sincerely hope.

Restaurant Gwendolyn

152 E Pecan, Ste. 100

(210) 222-1849

Support Local Journalism.
Join the San Antonio Current Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the San Antonio Press Club for as little as $5 a month.

Read the Digital Print Issue

September 22, 2021

View more issues


Join SA Current Newsletters

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.


© 2021 San Antonio Current

Website powered by Foundation