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Shang-Hai is a third-generation Kimura family secret surreptitiously shared with any and everyone we know. Of course, it's a lot easier to eat there when you don't live 30 minutes away, but the dependable food is definitely worth the drive up I-35. I won't pretend to understand the pretensions of authentic Chinese cuisine, but I am comfortable enough with casual American-Chinese cooking to say that Shang-Hai is absolutely solid — from their crisp, pork-carrot-cabbage-crammed egg rolls to their thick patties of egg foo young. And it is a quiet place — save for the Sunday swarm of church goers and inevitable weekday lunch bunches — tucked comfortably into a small shopping center, an appropriate locale for a family restaurant. The husband-and-wife team of Ken and Ba Lam head the dining room, and know at least half of their customers by name or by order; while co-owner Tai Ngo is steadfast in the kitchen, preparing the dishes with recipes he brought to the business from his native Vietnam. - Wendi Kimura

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