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At a time when the world's oceans are becoming depleted, it's at once odd and altogether understandable that sushi continues to rise in popularity. Presumably pristine, there is also a paradoxical whiff of decadence about it (the Japanese have long considered seafoods to be aphrodisiacs, by the way); salmon and shrimp may be farmed successfully, but don't expect aquaculture to bring us tuna any time soon. The purpose of this introduction is not to instill guilt, but rather to make us realize the value of what we have - while we have it. And a platter of unadorned sushi is perhaps the best possible way to understand the virtue of impeccably fresh seafood simply presented. Sushihana's menu of sushis, sashimis, rolls, and handrolls totals 68 offerings, and if you have favorites, by all means go for them. Both flying fish and smelt roe are available, as are five kinds of tuna, from deep-red toro to super-white slices. Another way to whet the palate is to order a sashimi or sushi assortment. They are available both as appetizers or as a dinner accompanied by miso soup or salad. - Ron Bechtol

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