Tony G’s Soul Food
915 Hackberry St., (210) 451-1234, tonygssoulfood.com
Tommy Moore’s may have closed in 2014 due to foreclosure, but soul food never truly left the Eastside. Tony G’s Soul Food, which relocated from its original location at St. Paul Square to the former home of Tommy Moore’s, is keeping soul alive.
The space received a deserved makeover — the carpets are gone, as are the transmissions that were left by previous tenants, according to one of our servers. In its place are stained concrete floors, a sleek new paint job, a bar and a new buffet line that brings in hordes for a lively Sunday brunch.
The food is everything you crave when seeking comfort fare. The collards leaned on the bitter side during lunch, and the smothered pork chop (covered in a velvety brown gravy) fared better with a steak knife, rather than the butter knife we were given. Still the fried chicken is a must, as is the cornbread and grits (cheesy or chipotle, your choice). The grape Kool-Aid was a plus.
Tony G’s was also known for its brunch, which they jumped back into this weekend in their new digs. Brunch gets going at around 10:30 a.m. and the inside of the restaurant fills up as rotating bands set up for the day. The never-empty buffet line, emblazoned simply “Soul Food” held brunch basics such as sausage, bacon and scrambled eggs on one side and on the other side all the hits such as biscuits and gravy, mac ‘n’ cheese, wings and waffles (honestly, more convenient than an entire leg), fried catfish, collards and tournedos (the end portion of beef tenderloin) with mushroom and gravy. Oh, and there’s a meat-carving station.
Head there for the jovial and communal vibe that sets this restaurant apart.