The Big Spoon: The Current Decided to Give Me a Column

Illustration by Carlos Aguilar
In the last four and a half years, I’ve watched this city’s dining scene do its thing. I’ve reported on it at length. I’ve begrudgingly put up slideshows on "20-plus number of things you should eat this week." I’ve put on 20 pounds. And now, as I near my 10th year as a professional writer, this Latinita is getting her very own column.

In case you’re new to the Current or its dining and drinking section, here’s a bit about me. I’ve been in San Antonio 14 years this August, and I didn’t have a puffy taco until I was in my early 20s. I’d like to eat my way through Asia one day, but will always find solace in tamales. There’s nothing quite like an expertly made martini (really, try it), but I won’t turn up my nose at a Topo Chico-filled mocktail, or a frosty Lone Star on a hot day.

Really, there isn’t a whole lot I turn my nose up at (see 20-pound weight gain), but in my four and a half years as an on-and-off critic, writer, slideshow builder and editor, I’ve seen the industry continue to bloom. I’ve seen the dips and restaurant closings, like this weekend’s news of Edera Osteria-Enoteca shutting its doors. I’ve seen people flourish into great servers, business owners and chefs, and I’ve seen others burn out in a blaze of glory. I’ve discerned some of what San Antonio likes, a lot of what it hates and everything in between, all of which I will share with you in this column.

In the coming weeks, I’ll break down food costs, highlight industry players of note, and maybe suggest we emulate Austin (gasp, I know) in regulating sick leave for all. I hope you join me in breaking bread, sipping lattes, and grabbing the biggest spoon you can find to dig in to San Antonio’s food and drink scene. Vámonos.

— Jess Elizarraras, [email protected]

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