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Ask for Eunice — that's my advice and I'm sticking to it. True, Eunice doesn't sound like a name that would be attached to a Sino-seafood savant, but take it from me, she is a Chinese firecracker, that one. The diminutive waitress is nothing if not opinionated, and she will have you heading right for the pull-out center of Wah Kee's otherwise altogether ordinary menu — straight to the spicy jellyfish or deep fried pig's intestine, for example. Yum. In fact, we were already there, zeroing in on the weird, exotic, unusual — as usual. Our first waiter gave up in the face of too many questions, and Eunice was called in as backup artillery; immediately she became our new best friend. Turns out, as is often the case, that many of the menu insert's more offbeat items are only occasionally available due to lack of enthusiasm on the part of the eating public. What's the matter, y'all — spicy pig's belly doesn't get the gastric juices flowing? Spicy beef tripe turned out to be the only challenging item left in the appetizer arena, so of course we leaped right on it. Yum again.;- Ron Bechtol

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