From our review: Chef couple John and Elise Russ gifted us Clementine (“seasonal Southern and American eats”) late last year, with a menu that tweaked Southern standards and introduced new classics such as heretical hush puppies. And now we have Meadow, bought to us by another culinary couple, San Antonio natives PJ and Lindsey Edwards, she formerly with the Jason Dady Restaurant Group, he most recently culinary director of Austin’s Contigo. “Seasonal, Texas, Southern” is their mantra. There are references to Texas products on the menu — pecans, apples and beef among them, but plates seem to suggest more “I Suwanee” than “boy howdy.” Wood oven cornbread with jalapeño pimento cheese and honey lard butter both reinforced that impression and started us out with a bang. OK, the cornbread was a tad crumbly, but its smoky-savory flavor played beautifully against both irresistible honey-lard butter (you could slather this stuff on almost anything) and exemplary pimento cheese that had the sort of snakebite heart that is often masked by Southern politesse. ‘Nduja, a spiky/spreadable Calabrian sausage, enlivened the savory marmalade that gave a nestful of crusty creamed corn fritters a needed boost; they were good, but the pudding-like filling needed a little more textural push-back. Individually house-pickled green tomatoes, green beans and cucumbers, or their seasonal counterparts, are a must-order, no matter what else you’re having. – Ron Bechtol Photo by Erin Winch Credit: Erin Winch

Earlier this season, on September 22nd, Meadow Neighborhood Eatery & Bar opened on the North Side in The Alley off of Bitters, just a short distance away from U.S. 281. While the restaurant moved into the old Tre Enoteca location, owners P.J. and Lindsey Edwards have a new concept they have introduced in the area that focuses on local and seasonal ingredients that represent South Texas.

Their idea of southern seasonal cooking carries over to their happy-hour menu as well. The special menu features a variety of appetizers ranging from a house-made biscuit for $3 to blistered shishito peppers for $6. Their drink specials are excellent as well with five featured cocktails ranging from $5-$6, wine for $5-$7 and beer at $2.

I visited as Meadow opened at 5 p.m. and was the first one in. I opted to sit at the bar, though there was ample space at the large community table and some of the lounge areas inside of the restaurant.

I ordered Meadow’s creamed pea hummus, a $5 dish that is served with house-made pita and purple bell peppers, a vegetable I wasn’t even aware of until stopping in at the local spot. The dish paired perfectly with my cocktail, the Bitters & 281, a cleverly named drink that combines grapefruit, gin, tonic and bitters for a light and refreshing result. At only $5, the drink was perfect for sipping on the patio or at the bar. With my bill only coming out to $10, I was able to get out the door without breaking the bank.

Soon after my food arrived a couple of groups trickled in, mostly older, meeting for happy hour in parties of twos and threes to catch up with friends. It’s the type of place where you can make small talk with your neighbor or be left to yourself.

Meadow Neighborhood Eatery and Bar

555 W. Bitters Road, San Antonio, TX

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This article appears in Oct 31 – Nov 6, 2018.