Nicosi dessert bar to debut June 26 at San Antonio’s Pullman Market

The reservation-only and no-phones-allowed Nicosi is the third dining spot to open inside the Pearl's new culinary market.

click to enlarge A Nicosi dessert created to showcase bitter flavors incorporates avocado, chocolate, peach leaf, water buffalo milk and cocoa nibs. - Courtesy Photo / Robert Lerma for Nicosi
Courtesy Photo / Robert Lerma for Nicosi
A Nicosi dessert created to showcase bitter flavors incorporates avocado, chocolate, peach leaf, water buffalo milk and cocoa nibs.
Reservation-only dessert bar Nicosi, the third of four restaurant concepts opening inside the Pearl's Pullman Market, will debut Wednesday, June 26, according to officials with the high-end grocery.

The 20-seat Nicosi will feature a tasting menu that embraces acid, sweet, bitter and umami flavors to expand diners' expectations about dessert, Pullman officials said. Award-winning pastry chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph will oversee the concept, which will turn over its menu every three months and allow diners to have one-on-one interactions with the chefs.

“It has been a dream of mine since I was 17 to be in a space that celebrates desserts and the artistry behind it. I am excited to finally see Nicosi come to life,” Bristol-Joseph said in an emailed statement. “Nicosi is a space that will allow chefs like our chef de cuisine, Karla Espinosa, and guests to explore what desserts are and how different they can be to each of us."

Nicosi will incorporate the element of surprise into its presentation, meaning its staff won't reveal details about or photos of new items in advance of the quarterly menu changes. The spot also will have a no-phone policy, which officials said will "encourage conversation and connection, and for guests to be present in the experience."

The dessert bar will be open Wednesday through Sunday, hosting two nightly seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 8 p.m. Reservations are available via OpenTable and each seating runs $100 with non-alcoholic pairings and $120 with alcoholic drinks.

Pullman, located at 221 Newell Ave., was touted as the Southwest's largest culinary market when it opened in April. The 40,000-square-foot market made its debut with restaurants Fife & Farro and Mezquite in operation. The owners promised that two more concepts — Nicosi and Isidore — would launch this summer.

Pullman hasn't yet set a date for the opening of Isidore, a fine-dining spot focused on Texas-farmed ingredients.

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Sanford Nowlin

Sanford Nowlin is editor-in-chief of the San Antonio Current.

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