On National Paella Day, San Antonio chefs weigh in on the iconic rice dish

Like many notable culinary creations, paella stemmed from a basic desire — hunger.

“Valencian farmers would use whatever was left over from a hard day of labor and cook it over a pan with rice,” chef Juan Bazaan of Toro Kitchen + Bar told the Current.

Now widely regarded as the birthplace of paella, Valencia’s humble dish has inspired countless variations worldwide. And it’s even inspired National Paella Day in the U.S., which happens to fall on Thursday, March 27, and is often accompanied by restaurant deals on the dish. 

But what makes a plate of rice and protein a true paella?

“A true paella actually consists of rabbit, chicken or quail, saffron, tomato and chicken broth,” Bazaan noted. Toro’s menu also pays homage to Valencian fisherman with paella marinera. Born from a similar need to cook something hearty after a long day at sea, the paella variant typically consisted of fresh seafood such as octopus, shrimp, mussels and squid.

“Classical paella is an art form,” said San Antonio chef Johnny Hernandez, who founded the Paella Challenge in 2009.

The well-known culinary event, aimed at raising funds for Kitchen Funds Campus — a nonprofit supporting aspiring young chefs and kids in the culinary arts — brings local chefs together in a friendly competition to create the best traditional paella along with the most innovative new variation. 

Hernandez acknowledges that the Mexican paella variant differs from traditional Spanish paella in its use of ingredients such as chilies. Meanwhile, Spanish paella is more “Mediterranean” in terms of flavors and seasonings.

“We are all about flavor in your face!” Hernandez said of the Mexican approach.

Both Bazaan and Hernandez emphasized that traditional Spanish paellas draw in intense flavor from toasting the rice on the bottom of the pan.

“It’s called soccorat,” Bazaan explained, adding, “In Spain, they fight for this part of the rice!”

Chef Leo Davila, who recently became executive chef at San Antonio’s historic St. Anthony Hotel, has participated in the Paella Challenge since 2018. Renowned for his creative takes on classic dishes, such as his signature Big Red-infused taco and barbacoa flight, which earned recognition on Texas Monthly’s 2025 Top 10 Tacos in Texas list, Davila admitted it took will and lots of “trial and error” the first year he competed in the Paella Challenge.

“It wasn’t even about winning at that point,” he said. “It was about, ‘Can we make this edible?'”

Now with a few more years’ experience under his belt when it comes to the proper paella technique, the UNESCO Chef Ambassador added that paella was a way for him to ease outside his “comfort zone.”

“As long as you’re paying respect to the craft, it all works out,” Davila said.

Bazaan, a fellow UNESCO Chef Ambassador, noted what brought him the most satisfaction crafting paellas at Toro’s three locations.

“When people from Spain visit, they tell me, ‘It tastes like home.”

Subscribe to SA Current newsletters.

Follow us: Apple News | Google News | NewsBreak | Reddit | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter| Or sign up for our RSS Feed

Related Stories

The 13th Annual Paella Challenge will return to San Antonio’s Mission County Park this Sunday

The cooking competition will highlight creations of 40 culinary pros from San Antonio and Mexico.

Toro Kitchen + Bar serving Spanish fare at new location in far North San Antonio

The new spot boasts an upper level cocktail bar and a custom-made sculpture by San Antonio mixed-media artist Ernesto Ibanez.

First Look: Hotel Valencia’s made-to-order paella brings flavor, value to downtown San Antonio lunch

The hotel’s custom paella lunch special clocks in at a relatively affordable — for downtown dining standards — $16.95 per person.

This article appears in Mar 19 – Apr 1, 2025.