From Feast, Rebelle and Playland Pizza to his current role at River Walk seafood restaurant Ostra and with the Fajita Lounge and Mall Noodz pop-ups, Jacob Gonzalez has become one of the city’s most versatile chefs.
His 18-year culinary career has made him a fixture across many places San Antonians go to eat.
When did you start cooking?
I think it began with a summer job at Van’s on Broadway. I was making breakfast, prepping for lunch, working dinner, skateboarding in between … . That whole summer I was in the kitchen, and I realized I really liked it.
You were originally in film school?
Yeah. I was in film school originally, but I’m pretty creative and artistic. I was watching way too much Rachael Ray that summer. I started making lunches for my mom to take to work, then started looking up culinary schools. That’s how I landed on St. Philip’s [College].
What year was that?
I went to St. Philip’s while working full-time, so it took about six years. I was there roughly from 2009 to 2015 while I was working at Feast.
Speaking of Feast, what were some of the other places you worked around town?
Feast was my first professional kitchen. I went from baking and salads into sauté and grill. After that, Chef Stefan [Bowers] took me to help open Rebelle. I got my first management job at Battalion, then worked with Andrew Weissman at Signature. I came back to Rebelle, then got the opportunity to be chef de cuisine at Feast and change the menu toward the end of that. Then I became [chef de cuisine] at Playland Pizza, which taught me a ton about pizza and gave me this art-meets-food outlet where I made a new menu every day.
How did COVID change your trajectory?
When COVID hit, I was bored at home and just started cooking for friends. I was hanging out with Aaron Peña from Squeezebox, and we did curbside meals together. We turned that into pop-ups, and that’s where Fajita Lounge organically came from — literally cooking fajitas out of the back of my truck for staff and neighbors. People noticed, and that grew into what it is now.
Then you went back to Rebelle?
Yeah, once things opened up. I worked at Rebelle again as a lead cook, then I got a seasonal sous chef job in upstate New York. I ran that kitchen, learned a lot, then returned home and linked back up with old coworkers like Emilio [TK] and Chef Robert [Cantu] at Ostra.
What’s it like working at Ostra now?
I’m there full-time and also doing Fajita Lounge on my days off, plus monthly pop-ups for Mall Noodz. Working with Emilio and Robert feels like getting the band back together — old shipmates who know what we’re doing in the kitchen.
One dish that sticks in people’s minds is the pork entree at Ostra. What goes into that?
That dish is Chef Robert’s brainchild, but we all contribute. The pork is brined and seasoned with a baharat-like spice blend. But the standout is the toum — pureed raw garlic emulsified with olive oil and water, basically a garlic mayonnaise without eggs. It’s about technique and balance.
You’ve worked lots of different styles. Do you have a favorite?
I’d say California-style cuisine — even though I’ve never been to California. It’s about balance and simplicity: acid, fat, respect for vegetables and meat, dishes that look simple but are thoughtful and composed.
Do you dream of opening your own place?
Absolutely. One day it will happen — it’s about patience and getting the ducks in a row. I’m still pretty young, and I want to do it right.
Quick Bites
Last book you read: The cookbook Estella by Ignacio MattosLast movie you watched: Who Framed Roger Rabbit?
Go-to post-shift drink: A Busch at Pumper’s
Underrated local spots: Bliss in Southtown and Pumper’s
Anything else you want people to know? “I’m really grateful for the community and the support from peers, friends, and everyone who’s helped along the way. I love technical, ingredient-driven cooking — it’s fun and always evolving.”
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