The prime corner of St. Paul Square that once housed the shuttered Francis Bogside has stood empty for months.
Now, the spot at 1170 E. Commerce Street has found a worthy successor in Miles, a new cocktail bar and restaurant with a jazz legend for a namesake and a menu built around elevated takes on classic staples.
Co-created by Tatanka Guerrero of Dreamers & Doers Hospitality Group, chef Steven Lopez (formerly Supper at Hotel Emma) and Matt Garcia (Gigi’s Deli, Fajita Lounge), Miles isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel but deliver on the essentials. For example, the place has a steak so damn good I’m still thinking about it a day after my visit.
I’ve been burned by pricier steaks before, but this time, the kitchen got every element right with the $28 butcher’s-cut steak I ordered.
Therein lies the charm with Miles. The team isn’t trying too hard — the small, yet straightforward menu is indicative of that. As a result, the steak was among the best I’ve had in months — and I’ve tried a fair few. Perfectly cooked to medium-rare, the meat was nicely paired with soy-glazed potatoes and a salsa matcha accoutrement.
The order typically comes with gochujang carrot butter, but I requested that be held due to allergies. The beautiful thing about it? The steak was flavorful enough without butter.
Another nice touch? The Happy Meal. The $18 deal consists of a filet-of-fish sandwich with your choice of a High Life pony or a gin martini. It’s a fun way to put an adult spin on an old classic.
At Miles, the food menu is dubbed the “Setlist” — a nice nod to the space’s musical influences. Make sure to take a look at the paintings adorning the walls while you visit.
Of course, Miles is first and foremost a cocktail bar. There’s a whole drink menu dedicated to classics — martinis, daqs, old fashioneds, Negronis and the like — but the spot also has its own creative signature drinks. I could see the Pink Noise, comprised of tequila, hibiscus-infused curaçao, lime and hibiscus-grapefruit air, was quickly becoming a top order for guests dining nearby.
The signature drink selections also weren’t afraid to dabble with bold flavors. A classic gin and tonic got a daring remake as a Toomas & Tonic with a tomato tonic and elderflower. Bee pollen syrup and rye marry together in the Dizzy Bee.
While the food menu at Miles focuses on the familiar, the bar clearly isn’t afraid to take risks.
Often, San Antonio new restaurants veer down one of two paths: a fine dining experience or ease and affordability. That leaves locals with a choice between a risky splurge or a safe standby. The restaurants that manage to last find a way to balance both sides of the equation — something Miles so far appears to be doing capably.
The restaurant is in isoft-opening phase over Memorial Day weekend. Based on this initial visit, it stuck the landing with the way the team promoted the concept — straightforward food, strong drinks and genuine hospitality.
Miles is a concept that makes perfect sense for that notable corner of St. Paul Square.
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