Nicosi’s Tavel Bristol-Joseph and Karla Espinosa prepare deserts at Nicosi. Credit: Robert Lerma
Esquire Magazine has named Tavel Bristol-Joseph and Karla Espinosa of San Antonio’s recently opened Nicosi as its Pastry Chefs of the Year.

The honor comes as part of the publication’s annual Best New Restaurants in America issue, which identifies what it calls the nation’s “35 new culinary champions” while also lauding top chefs and culinary rising stars.

High-end dessert bar Nicosi opened this summer at the Pearl’s gourmet grocery, Pullman Market, 221 Newell Ave., specializing in seasonal, multi-course tasting menus.

Experiences at the 20-seat dining spot run $100 without alcohol pairings and $120 with alcohol, and diners should expect a full meal with emphasis on acid, sweet, bitter, and savory. A no-photography policy is enforced to build mystique around its creations.

“An eight-course dessert tasting menu — just dessert — could be an ordeal. Self-serious. Weird. Saccharine,” Esquire wrote of its choice. “But Tavel Bristol-Joseph and Karla Espinosa are too damn talented to make it anything but a blast.”

While Nicosi’s admission price puts it out of reach for most San Antonio diners, Bristol-Joseph and Espinosa certainly aren’t without pedigree.

Bristol-Joseph was also named one of Food & Wine‘s Best New Chefs in 2020 on the strength of the bakery and dessert items on offer at several high-profile restaurants he launched in Austin.

Meanwhile, Espinoza has built on culinary experience in Mexico, Spain, Argentina and Belgium to earn raves as head pastry chef at MAD in Houston and embrace an innovative, seasonal approach to creating sweets.

The two Nicosi chefs were the only San Antonians featured in Esquire‘s list. Only two Texas restaurants earned a spot among its 35 best: Houston James Beard Award finalist Late August and Dallas yakitori spot Mābo.

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This article appears in Nov 27 – Dec 10, 2024.

Sanford Nowlin is editor-in-chief of the San Antonio Current. He holds degrees from Trinity University and the University of Texas at San Antonio, and his work has been featured in Salon, Alternet, Creative...