Chef Jason Dady’s enthusiasm is infectious.
The San Antonio chef and restaurateur (Tre Trattoria, Roca & Martillo) made sure to check on every guest who crossed his path last Friday evening as he wove through Mexico Ceaty, the new 25,000-square-foot food hall at the Shops at Rivercenter.
The concept, which Dady launched last month to showcase Tex-Mex cuisine with some interior Mexican influences, took over the downtown shopping mall’s former food court.
“Everything is made in-house,” Dady said, as he positioned a sampling of five salsas at my table at Tres Arcos, Mexico Seary’s sitdown Tex-Mex restaurant.
Like its Pearl-area counterpart, the Pullman Market — owned and operated separately by Emmer & Rye Hospitality — Dady’s sprawling concept includes a mix of sitdown and grab-and-go dining options along with shopping.
Although the concepts are similar, Mexico Ceaty feels right at home in its downtown location, offering a genuine slice of San Antonio culture and cuisine. My immediate thought was that the food hall would be a good starting point for tourists staying in downtown hotels to get a true sense of what the city is all about.
In addition to a panaderia, a fruteria, a tortilleria and walls full of Mexican wines, the space also boasts an impressive TV-equipped bar dubbed Dos Cantinas and a true speakeasy called El Ultimo. Separate eateries served up customizable street tacos, burritos, tortas and ceviches, among other favorites.
San Antonio artist Colton Valentine’s signature murals are all over Mexico Ceaty. A beautiful rendering of La Catrina keeps a watchful eye on guests at Tres Arcos, almost like San Antonio’s version of the Mona Lisa.
Team effort
The owners of Rivercenter Mall approached Dady and asked him to transform the space several years ago. Given the large portfolio of restaurant concepts his hospitality group already operates, launching the massive food hall was no mean feat. He attributed the completion to his team’s hard work.
“None of this would be possible without them,” he said. “We don’t rely on outside investors for funding. That way we can stay true to our vision without outside interference.”
Speaking of Dady’s team, multiple Mexico Ceaty employees tossed friendly “hellos” in my direction as I explored the goods for sale on shelves intertwined between dining concepts. While there was an abundance of kitchen and home products to choose from, my eyes were immediately drawn to a cute “Chisme and Chill,” mug. A “Cafecito y Chisme” shirt near the panaderia also grabbed my attention.
With a bit of research, I discovered the mug was from a company called Werk Mija, a Latina-owned and operated brand.
It’s an undertaking to experience the entire Mexico Ceaty space in one go — it’s simply that large and that densely packed. The best way to visit is by parking in the Shops at Rivercenter parking garage.
Like Alex Amaro of city center bar concepts Paradise Unknown and Be Kind & Rewind, Dady is fully aware that locals may hesitate to visit based on Mexico Ceaty’s downtown location — an area some regard as a zone intended for tourists and conventioneers.
“I get it!” Dady said. “I know the last time locals may have visited Rivercenter Mall may have been on a field trip during school or years ago in general.”
However, Dady said he aims for Mexico Ceaty to be destination that locals can proudly claim as their own.
“You can create any type of dining experience you want, and that’s a deliberate design choice so you can come back over and over again to enjoy the many styles of cuisine from San Antonio and Mexico,” the chef explained. “And as we know, all tourists want tacos, margs and Texas BBQ when they visit our amazing city. It’s walkable from all of downtown and offers the option of dining early or late. Whether you want breakfast tacos, pastries, street tacos, a variety of ceviches or classic Tex-Mex fajitas — we’ve got you covered.”
Spirit of San Antonio
To Dady’s point, the thoughtfully designed space and experiences spoke for themselves. Mexico Ceaty was built to pay tribute to our neighbor to the south, but the entire project also feels true to the spirit of San Antonio. It made me wish the concept had existed when I visited the Shops at Rivercenter on a grade-school field trip.
Thankfully, I am now old enough to experience Mexico Ceaty’s hidden gem, El Ultimo. The clandestine bar felt like being let into a special club, its limited seating illuminated by the dim glow of artfully placed candles and red lights meant to signify the eyes of a wolf painted on the wall — another Valentine work.
It’s fun to locate the speakeasy on your own, and I have already offered a hint on how to find your way.
Tres Arcos offers a standard Tex-Mex menu San Antonio diners will be well accustomed to by now. The standouts were the salsa and mole samplers.
Even though I have balked at paying for chips and salsa in the past, the sampler’s $11.95 price tag was money well spent. The chips were fresh and the five salsas served up in hearty portions, each offering a different heat level. It was easy to fill up on the salsas and a sampler of five scratch-made moles ($19.95) before I even made it to my entree.
“My advice is to come see for yourself and create your own personally designed experience,” Dady said in invitation for locals to explore the concept.
Case in point: my three-hour introductory visit still wasn’t enough to experience all Mexico Ceaty has to offer, but Dady and his team clearly designed it that way.
I’m already planning my return.
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