Pullman Market’s Mezquite offers fare inspired by the cuisine of Sonora, Mexico, Credit: Nina Rangel
When the Pearl’s Pullman Market launched, only two of its four restaurant concepts were in operation, but if their quality is any indication, the other pair will be worth the wait.

Pullman’s Fife & Farro offers Italian eats made from scratch, in a cozy, pseudo-rustic atmosphere. Steps away is Mezquite, which offers fare inspired by the cuisine of Sonora, Mexico, and boasts a dedicated mezcal bar named Mezcaleria.

The pair opened before the launch of two other full-service restaurants, Isidore and Nicosi, which will begin serving later this summer. Isidore is billed as an elevated, seasonal experience, while Nicosi will be an intimate dessert bar with 20 seats and a no-phone policy.

We paid a visit to Fife & Farro and Mezquite for first impressions, and to share the skinny on vibes, affordability and — of course — the food.

Fife & Farro

Wood-fired sourdough pizza and handmade heritage grain pasta are the cornerstones of Fife & Farro, and both have been home runs on every visit so far.

When it comes to aesthetics, the Italian-focused eatery is awash is natural wood tones, cheery mustard yellow and fresh green hues. Warm, romantic lighting may take diners’ minds off the din that floats in from the adjacent market. Just the same, you may need to ask your server to speak up when they’re offering a rundown of the menu.

Wood-fired sourdough pizza and handmade heritage grain pasta are the star attractions at Pullman’s Fife & Farro. Credit: Nina R

Fife & Farro’s service is casual, yet attentive, but diners be warned: each dish is run to the table as it’s completed, so don’t plan on eating at the same time if each member of your party orders from a different section of the menu.

Pony up for the focaccia bread as a vessel if you choose to sample appetizers such as the house mozzarella, eggplant caponata or snapper crudo. Also expect to spend an average of $17 for pizza and $18 on pasta, but be assured the inventiveness and freshness of each is worth the price tag.

Don’t sleep on the veggie pizza, with shaved summer squash, capers, mozzarella, white sauce and creamy Texas Chevre cheeses. Garlic scapes, or the green shoots that sprout off an onion, add another fresh component, something like a combination of scallions and chives.

On the bar side, each of Fife & Farro’s sparkling spumantes — that’s bubbly wine — by the glass is delightful, as is the Cocconato Spritz house cocktail.

Fife & Farro is open 5-10 p.m. Monday and Tuesday and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Mezquite

Flavorful grilled meats and vibrant cocktails inspired by the Sonoran region of Mexico pave the way for diners at Mezquite.

Deep green tones, earthy hues and textured, bohemian details transport dinners to the arid zones of the Baja Peninsula, and the food does the same.

Mezquite’s servers bring a certain algo especial to each experience, whether you sit up at Mezcaleria’s bar or in the dining room. Staff doesn’t shy away from gushing about their favorite menu items — the fish tacos, example — so it may be a good idea to ask for recommendations.

Mezquite’s aguachile amarillo features shrimp, fiery habanero pepper, sliced red onion and orange segments. Credit: Nina Rangel

First up, those fish tacos we mentioned, while a bit pricey at $18 for an order of three, were sublime. Tortillas made with Sonoroan wheat cradle perfectly flaky white fish. The grain’s slight sweetness offered a perfect balance to the filling.

We found another winner in the aguachile amarillo, featuring shrimp, fiery habanero pepper, sliced red onion and orange segments. Consider placing an extra order of ultra-crispy tostadas to make sure you’re able to dip up every last morsel.

Entrees at Mezquite are a bit pricier than Pullman’s Italian counterpart, at an average of $25 per dish, but accompanied by tortillas, rice and charro beans, each felt like a full meal. The house cocktails were universally tasty, and the cafe de olla cold brew is a delight for caffeine fiends.

Mezquite is open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Thursday through Tuesday and 5-10 p.m. Wednesday.

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Nina Rangel uses nearly 20 years of experience in the foodservice industry to tell the stories of movers and shakers in the food scene in San Antonio. As the Food + Nightlife Editor for the San Antonio...