Port Royal’s whole fried snapper eskovitch was the night’s show-stopping dish. Credit: Nina Rangel

During a Wednesday charity dinner, San Antonio chef Nicola Blaque — now working to open Port Royal, her third local eatery — showed off complex yet approachable Caribbean fare that will be the heart of the new restaurant.

Given the sampling of dishes, it’s a safe assumption that fans of Blaque’s nationally renowned Jerk Shack and sophomore project Mi Roti will enjoy some of the same over-the-top island flavors at Port Royal — just served with a hint of luxury. Located in Hemisfair, the dining spot is scheduled to open in early 2024.

“I know this is a special occasion, but I didn’t want to do white tablecloth,” James Beard Award-nominated Blaque told the Current after the dinner, held at Jerk Shack. “[Port Royal] is still going to be casual and fun, but the food will be a bit more elevated. We’ve been working on these dishes for quite some time.”

For the five-course dinner, served to an intimate group of 11, Blaque offered Jamaican spins on tried-and-true eats such as chopped salad, mofongo, fried snapper and donuts. Fresh flowers and candles provided an upscale ambiance.

The event was part of Visit San Antonio’s inaugural ¡Provecho! dinner series, which benefits the San Antonio Hospitality Foundation and scholarships for up-and-coming chefs.

Port Royal’s mofongo-inspired fried plantain dish featured a fragrant garlic sauce. Credit: Nina Rangel

Of the five dishes, the fried snapper eskovitch — a Jamaican take on escabeche — served with tangy pickled vegetables, candied jalapeños, mango chutney and chimichurri atop a scoop of mashed sweet potato was the one closest to its final form, Blaque said. Featuring a show-stopping presentation of a whole seasoned and fried fish, it will likely be one of the inaugural dishes at Port Royal, she added.

Blaque’s Caribbean chopped salad offered tomato, cucumber and pickled red onions tossed in a sweet yet tangy pineapple-lime vinaigrette. A heavily charred slice of fresh pineapple offered a smoky note.

Her take on Puerto Rican plantain-based favorite mofongo featured sumptuous mozzarella cheese, spicy lump crab meat and sweet plantains. Breaded and fried golden brown, the delicious nuggets came accompanied with fragrant garlic sauce and avocado creme.

Port Royal’s fried donut and pineapple-lime sorbet offered a sweet end to the night. Credit: Nina Rangel

The evening’s heartiest course featured savory, slow-braised oxtail ragu over pappardelle pasta. Romano cheese and a sprinkle of truffle oil added a Mediterranean note to the Island favorite. Several diners likened this dish to a Jamaican spin on beef stroganoff with a spicy, kicked-up sauce.

Blaque’s fried donuts filled with guava and cheese offered a sweet and opulent end to the meal. The accompanying lime-pineapple sorbet was sufficiently palate-puckering to cut through the rich, beignet-like pastry.

The 1,740-square-foot Port Royal will operate from the Schultze House, one of several historically recreated homes in downtown’s Hemisfair complex. Constructed in 1893, the structure was part of the 1968 World’s Fair.

Blaque’s new restaurant will join other upcoming culinary ventures in Hemisfair, including Paleteria San Antonio, Künstler Brewing, The Bombay Bicycle Club, Carmens de la Calle and Kusch Faire.

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This article appears in Apr 19 – May 2, 2023.

Nina Rangel uses nearly 20 years of experience in the foodservice industry to tell the stories of movers and shakers in the food scene in San Antonio. As the Food + Nightlife Editor for the San Antonio...