Grissini

Grissini has undergone more upheaval recently than an eruption of Vesuvio. First, it eliminated lunch at the original Fredericksburg address. Then, under the name San Remo, it took over the star-crossed location at West Avenue and Lockhill-Selma that has been home to - let us count the ways - about five restaurants. Although San Remo opened to critical acclaim, it soon cratered - due in part, I'm told by real estate sources, to the inability to unload the Fredericksburg Road lease. And now Grissini is back where it all started - apparently none the worse for wear. In fact, if anything, Grissini is better than ever. The subtly decorated dining room (mirrors abound, and there is a minimum of fake-sculpture tomfoolery) seems to glow with heightened allure, and if Scaloppina San Remo remains as a cautionary reminder of the failed operation, the rest of the menu seems familiar - except that I don't remember things being quite as good as they were on a recent visit. Maybe it was the lilting Italian being spoken at a couple of tables, but I don't think so. The opening cozze al vino bianco arrived arrayed on a plate, not submerged in liquid, and elicited unison nods of approval. Both mussels and herbal wine sauce fulfilled their promise; we only wished for more mopping sauce. - Ron Bechtol