Piedras Negras de Noche

You can see Piedras Negras de Noche from the highway, where the exit from I-35 South leads to Cevallos and Laredo streets. It's a big, two-story restaurant with its name painted at highway height. Given the easy accessibility, it's a wonder that I didn't visit years ago — it took a friend's recommendation to motivate me toward the South Side destination. While I waited for the other members of my party (Piedras Negras doesn't seat you 'til they all arrive), I watched in amazement as the joint filled up fast on a recent Thursday night. Families, couples, and two birthday parties filed past me to what is clearly a favorite neighborhood haunt. The interior is refreshing: decorated more toward a Mexican ranch than a fiesta motif, it advises you right off that this food is devoted to classic norteño fare. The menu, heavy on the steaks and beans, confirms it. - Retha Oliver