The exterior is quiet and unassuming - a small tan building, tucked behind the Uniroyal station on Hildebrand and Broadway. For years, I had driven by the place - occasionally tempted by the sign offering lunch specials - but had never managed to catch it when it was open. But as luck would have it, I stumbled upon La Calesa at just the right time one day in a hungry quest. And what a magical discovery it was: Inside the unassuming building was a jewel box of Mexican delights - a brightly painted home for delicacies that had been wowing critics since its 1983 opening. Bright Mediterrean blue, canary yellow, and lime green walls are adorned with art both surreal and traditional, and posted on the wall is a yellowing review from our own Ron Bechtol - years before he joined the Current. So, had the years treated La Calesa kindly? Indeed they had - and La Calesa treated us kindly as well. And although the food wasn't quite what we had expected, it was belly-moaning good. - Laura Fries