Nina Rangel
Pullman Market is located at 221 Newell Ave., on the south end of the redeveloped Pearl complex.
On a busy weekday afternoon, the new multi-concept gourmet market was a riot for the senses. A whole-animal butcher, a sourdough bakery, a fresh tortilleria and a ceviche counter served up deliciously scented artisan eats while shoppers perused colorful produce and pantry wares from Texas purveyors.
Touted as the largest culinary market in the Southwest, the 40,000-square-foot Pullman Market, 221 Newell Ave., opened to the public April 23, boasting multiple culinary concepts. Two of the market’s restaurants — Fife & Farro and Mezquite — are already in operation with the other two coming soon.
It takes a couple of passes for a first-time visitor to feel as if they've seen everything. From fresh packaged pasta to grab-and-go salads and sandwiches, the massive space houses thousands of top-quality products — with top-dollar price tags to match.
Circling a display of jarred salsas, we noticed not one offering was priced less than $7. In a blue-collar town where diners regularly complain about being charged for chips and salsa at a restaurant rather than getting them for free, the display raises questions about who Pullman's target market truly is.
Even so, it was pleasant to notice that nearly all the fresh produce, arranged artfully on glistening crushed ice, was from Central Texas farms. The names of the growers were even printed on placards next to the heads of cabbage, kohlrabi and fennel on display.
The variety of goods, from sauces to snacks, is impressive, and the overall vibe of the space is trendy and welcoming — if a bit on the cacophonous side. While the don't-Austin-my-San Antonio crowd may want to steer clear, it's obvious our growing city also boasts plenty of culinarily curious residents who will enjoy perusing Pullman's offerings.
If nothing else, we're looking forward to sitting at the market's agave-focused bar or one of its bistro tables with a cup of coffee — thankfully reasonably priced — and people-watching in the coming months.
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