Botika
303 Pearl Pkwy., Suite 111, (210) 670-7684 botikapearl.com
A little more than a year ago, San Antonio lost one of its first Pearl complex eateries, and the vacant space once occupied by Arcade Midtown Kitchen had its fair share of speculation swirling around it.
Though even Geronimo Lopez had heard whispers of Tyson Cole’s Uchi maybe, sorta, kinda in talks to fill the void, we’re pretty sure the chef is more content with what currently fills the spot.
Botika, announced in March and opened in July of 2016, is Lopez’s take on two new-to-SA ways of cooking. He blends Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) and Chifa (Chinese-Peruvian) methods to winsome results. Think fresh sashimi-grade fish meets comforting South American classics. Lopez’s opening menu, executed effortlessly with a staff mostly developed during his days as executive chef at the Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio’s NAO, features familiar dishes to the San Antonio palate. The picaderas (appetizers) feature duck confit and potato empanadas, tuna tartar and crackers, and anticuchos, though these aren’t the same one you’ll find while stumbling around NIOSA during Fiesta.
The Peruvian-style ceviches — available in Nikkei, classic and Chifa — are worth exploring, while the sushi rolls keep with the restaurants fun and funky theme.
Whispers of Arcade remain, but they’re just that. The industry-chic look designed by Urbanist Design (now part of Clayton & Little’s San Antonio office) contains flurries of color as orchestrated by Courtney + Co design firm. Touches of teal velvet dot the bar stools along with pairs of Peruvian pom poms, while a chandelier of baskets works the main entrance. The open kitchen, pushed forward to add a sushi bar, which is guarded by a fierce Hilmy-designed dragon.
You’ll want to take it all in over cocktails, which Botika also nails. Pisco sours, anyone? -JE
Baan Esaan
1035 S. Presa St., (210) 354-3772, baanesaan.com
Esaan (sometimes spelled Isaan — or simply Isan) is the kingdom’s easternmost region, bordered on three sides by Laos and Cambodia. It’s poor, little visited, and, from most accounts, not necessarily high on one’s Asian bucket list (though locals and expats would doubtlessly disagree). The hardscrabble cooking that results from what The Rough Guide has called “appallingly infertile soil” is nevertheless both vibrant and subtle, qualities that are equally on display in Baan Esaan’s dining room.
At the head of Baan Esaan’s menu is somtum, the spunky-spicy salad of green papaya that is an Esaan specialty. As served here, the salad – laced with shredded carrot and presented with romaine leaves that accompany many dishes – is a marvel of limey, fish-sauce flavors played against the papaya’s clean crunch. The rendition with slivered Granny Smith apple is, surprisingly, a more-than-worthy alternative.
Laab, also known as larb, is another northeastern favorite, one that also happens to be the national dish of neighboring Laos. It’s available with minced beef, pork or chicken, and I have to assume that all three are treated equally as I’ve never made it past pork; it’s just too good. Lime, lemon grass and mint dominate, and the heat level can vary depending on the aggressiveness of that day’s chiles. My advice: stick to medium heat but be prepared to tolerate variances.
Outright great is the kaw moo yang, which translates as marinated and grilled pork shoulder. This is traditionally made with pork neck (but, hey, the neck bone is connected to the shoulder bone) and is sometimes presented with a spicy fish sauce, lime, chiles, traditionally a little palm sugar and toasted, cracked rice. Best of all, however, may be the Baan Esaan sausages, cured, fried and bursting with lemongrass flavors. In a display of naked confidence, they are served only with lime and Thai bird chiles. Yes, you must. -RB
Brigid/Francis Bogside
803 S. St. Mary’s St., (210) 263-7885, (210) 988-3093
Change is hard for some people. Uncertainty, newness all swirl around menu and staff changes, but at its core, the changes happening at Brigid/Francis Bogside, Stephen Mahoney’s restaurant/bar concept have been generally appealing.
The menu, currently a collaborative effort by Justin Richardson, Halston Connella, Evan Martinez and Noel Hallagan, features Continental fare as executed by the foursome and their staff. Brigid has retained that level of fine dining first found during its opening, but the guys are having more fun with the specials board, often filled with creative takes on duck, the occasional bouillabaisse lobster spaghetti, elegant and flowery charcuterie boards and a popular brunch spot come weekends.
If technique and elegance are part of the formula for Brigid, then skill and whimsy are what’s in store at Francis Bogside, where the chefs' South Texan upbringing blends to create elevated bar fare. A standard menu applies here, with standouts like the Thai fried chicken and green chicken curry, but the specials are where the staff really lets loose with clams and bacon, a nacho bar come Tuesdays, pork belly quesadillas, and grilled oysters. It’s great, locally sourced, inventive food sans the stuffy setting.
Don’t get too familiar with this menu as Martinez and Richardson make their way to Hanzo, Mahoney’s next venture, a Japanese-style Izakaya or gastropub opening in the Lincoln Heights area. And there’s more change on the way as Connella, who’s known for his Rebel Pizza concept, tweaks the recipe for his already popular pies. The oven’s on. Are you ready for the next menu? -JE
Café Dijon
555 E. Basse Road, Suite 113, (210) 822-2665, cafedijonsa.com
Fans of Parisian fare, vegetables and pastries will want to head to Café Dijon. Opened by the culinary team of Iverson Brownell, Christopher Jara and Chris Nieto all formerly with the St. Anthony Hotel, the eatery takes fresh, local and seasonal produce and turns it into casual, quick service meals.
Housed inside Café Salsita’s former home in Lincoln Heights, Café Dijon is a hop-skip from The Quarry. Outfitted with a sleek patio and a calming blue hue that fills the walls, Café Dijon serves both the dining in, chit-chat-prone crowd of ladies who lunch and the grab-and-go needs of those who can’t afford to leave their desk for an hour but still want to indulge in an éclair or two.
The menu, broken down into a la carte, main course, sweets and beverages serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with summer hours running 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Even non-Francophiles will get a kick out of the ratatouille toast, with herb-roasted vegetables and tomato-basil puree, and Madamoiselle of toasted brioche, poached egg, prosciutto, gruyere and diced tomatoes. A recent frittata du jour — handily picked up from the deli counter — was piled high with fresh roasted vegetables and custardy eggs. A Napolean allowed for the same roasted produce to meet a flaky crust, and paired nicely with the blue cheese and fruit salad, also picked up as takeout.
Come weekends, the menu features more of those egg-based breakfast classics along with mimosas and micheladas for a chill brunch that just so happens to include a violinist. It’s casual chic at its best. -JE
Edera Osteria Enoteca
1903 San Pedro Ave., (210) 530-1111, ederaosteria.com
Edera’s dining space comes across a little spartan by day, but at night, the place takes on a more intimate air — especially in the intermediate dining space with its lower ceiling. Prices on equivalent items don’t change de noche, but the selection is naturally larger. Gambas a la plancha are one plus of after-dark dining. Served with head and tail on, these impressive shrimp are worth every effort; their messy succulence accented with peppery oil and slivered garlic. In such company, I would normally not have thought of ordering the unassuming bruschetta alla Edera. But it turns out that this supremely simple appetizer, with toasted baguette, tomato compote and garlicky oil, is a perfect prelude to the meal to come. If the staff should offer additional balsamic, say yes.
Also assumed to be simple are gnocchi. But as one of my more notable kitchen failures, I’m especially attuned to their texture. Where these should have been pillowy, they were instead doughy. Their secondary sautéeing was nevertheless faultless, and although we didn’t get a lot of the advertised sage, the “alla bava” (basically “slobbery”) sauce with fontina cheese was luxurious to the point of lasciviousness. Also the essence of simplicity (and a Roman standby) is the bavette (a thin, flat pasta) cacio y pepe, counting for its appeal on an artful blending of cheese and showers of black pepper. Next time.
Dining at a nearby table, an off-duty local chef of serious renown gave the grilled salmon two thumbs up, and his word can be trusted — not the least because Chris Carlson once helmed the city’s best seafood restaurant. We ordered the special of the day — a sautéed snapper fillet with an array of sidekick components. “Everything tastes exactly like what it is,” my dining companion said, herself the product of a Hispano-Italian home kitchen. Some might take this as a compliment, others might have wished for more transformation in the blending of fennel, onion, nappa cabbage, artichoke hearts and assertively al-dente yet brothy cannellini beans that buoyed the excellent fish. Served in classy Riedel glassware, a beautiful Burgundian Chablis from a wine list that’s fairly priced served as a willing consort. -RB
Estate Coffee Co.
1320 E. Houston St., (210) 667-4347, estatecoffeecompany.com
When Estate Coffee Company and Oak and Salt Quality Goods opened their doors the last weekend of Fiesta, the Insta-razzi came running. The rush was predictable — coffee is having a well-deserved moment in San Antonio, and co-owner Brian LaBarbera had been teasing bits and pieces of the space and would-be drinks for months.
And several months in, the word of mouth and double-tap happy coffee drinkers that flood the tiny space are helping the partnership grow. The relationship is symbiotic, though. Oak and Salt founder Ben Annotti first launched the boutique spice shop as Pantry Provisions, a web-based food and drink bodega, out of Warehouse 5 on the city’s West Side.
That’s where he met LaBarbera, who had turned his woodworking hobby into a small business also housed in Warehouse 5. But LaBarbera, 27, had his eyes set on coffee. He joined Alex Dyck, 23, as a roasting intern at Brown Coffee Co., one of SA’s premiere bean operations.
The trio eventually leased out the space at 1320 E. Houston St., just east of I-37 and next door to Tucker’s Kozy Korner. The landmarks and directions are key here, as Estate Coffee Co. and Oak and Salt are adding an über-boutique element to an evolving East Side, where Annotti infuses most of his salts and what-nots, while Dyck roasts beans twice a week inside the tiny shop.
Where Estate and Oak separate themselves from the onslaught of coffee joints is their specialty coffees that combine both great beans and one-of-a-kind ingredients.
Let’s just say you’re not going to find them on Starbucks’ menu any time soon. The cold brew mint julep will win over most cold brew fans, with its Woodford Reserve mint-infused sugar, muddled mint and splash of Topo Chico, “for the bubbles,” says LaBarbera.
Take a step further with the Coffee Old Fashioned. The drink starts with a double shot of the Kenyan Nyeri Othaya Peaberry beans as expressed via the EK 43 grinder, and combines Crude “Sycophant” orange and fig bitters, with a very fragrant Woodford Reserve bourbon-smoked sugar from Bourbon Barrel Foods, Topo and orange peel garnish. At $8, most people won’t be drinking this every morning, but it’ll make coffee and cocktail connoisseurs swoon. -JE
Frank
1150 S. Alamo St., (210) 265-5292, hotdogscoldbeer.com
Though first announced in October 2014, the second location of the Austin-based hot doggery, which opened this past February, had a few construction woes to contend with. Rehabbing a building originally erected in 1912 probably wasn’t easy, but the neighborhood’s anticipation was understandable.
Yet, it was also easy to see why it took so long to complete. The indoor dining room on the bottom floor stands in stark contrast to the haphazard space that former owners Steve Silbas and Barbara Wolfe added in 2008. Those rasquache qualities worked for Casbeers, of course, but that was then. Now restaurants looking to make a splash in the bustling culinary scene are often tasked with delivering intricately designed spaces, though not to the detriment of the food.
However, Frank’s St. Francis Room, now a dining area and bar, was most definitely worth waiting for. Already the Alamo Methodist Church and later Green Room Dinner Theatre in its past lives, the St. Francis Room is spooky, yet inviting. Here’s a former place-of-worship-turned-lively-eatery-and-bar with tin ceiling tiles up above, awe-inspiring stained glass and a sizable stage that commands the eye, be it with bands or Spurs games on a giant projection screen.
The waffle fries (order the Reuben version, trust me) were hot and crisp and sturdy vessels to the mounds of sauerkraut, Thousand Island, Swiss and corned beef they’re tasked with carrying. Another early hit was the ginger cherry limeade, an addicting and light blend of vodka, cherry cider, ginger, lime and Main Root natural lemon lime soda. The pretzel — a massive beast of a baked good easily shared between four — was crisp and chewy both times we’ve tackled one (it comes with a steak knife, that’s how serious this pretzel is).
A recent Texalina — custom-made smoked pork and beef sausage, grilled horseradish coleslaw, Carolina mustard barbecue sauce and white cheddar — was nuanced, messy without being cumbersome to eat and the bread was buttery and soft. The Chicago dog, one of their daily offerings (the custom menu fluctuates some), carried all of the requisite relishes, fresh onions and peppers and made for a tasty bite. If you’d rather not bother with the bun, the German currywurst, doused in curry barbecue sauce is a winning alternative.-JE
Grayze
521 E. Grayson St., (210) 481-8776, grayzeongrayson.com
First, the name: love it. Just the right degree of clever.
The menu tries for some of the same and occasionally scores as well. Take the Cheeks n Buns, in which the name and the product come together perfectly in the form of just greasy enough barbacoa cradled in a sturdy slider bun with cilantro ginger slaw and kewpie mayo for crunchy/tangy contrast. At happy hour, one of these puppies is on special. Run, don’t walk.
Continuing with the name thing, let’s next arbitrarily pick the Caulicious. This plate turns out to be reasonably straightforward roasted cauliflower with a nutty, tahini vinaigrette, and it successfully delivers just what it says it will. As for The Harvest salad (they seem to have run out of cleverness when naming this one), it may deliver more than it needs to. There are red and golden beets, chewy barley and farro (the distinction between the two is lost in context), shaved, raw asparagus and pretty crunchy green beans, dabs of creamy ricotta, a few almonds and a vinaigrette in which the advertised preserved lemon doesn’t quite come through. Top all this with a few greens and there’s just a little too much going on — especially for a menu on which all the food offerings are simply labeled “Grub.”
Grayze’s take on mac n’ cheese is simply called “The Mac,” and with its four cheeses, caramelized onions and topping of pickled chiles, it’s decidedly wicked and probably better than many. As it’s un-American to knock burgers, I won’t presume to diss the Grayze Burger. It, too, is better than many with a dense, properly cooked patty topped by “freedom cheese” and “garden fixings” that include zucchini. A fried egg is only a buck extra and worth it. But if you’re going to go with the burger over less mainstream choices such as the Fiery Red Head (a blackened redfish po’boy), then you must have the fries, here called Ma Frittes. In fact, you should have the fries no matter what you order, they’re that good. That perfect pairing of crisp, peppery exterior with almost-creamy interior is only enhanced by especially good “grayze” ketchup and garlicky aioli.-RB
Viva Villa Taqueria
905 Dolorosa St., (210) 987-8482, vivavillatacos.com
Viva Villa is the Cortez clan’s latest venture in the family compound that is Market Square. Filled with rustic woods, exposed brick, nostalgic photos and a catch-all collection of light fixtures, it’s flashy, fun and more than holds its own with venerable Mi Tierra next door — an institution that has had generations to evolve into a beloved caricature of itself. It’s also helmed by a this-gen family member, Cariño Cortez, who just happens to be a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America-Hyde Park and the kitchens of the equally impressive restaurants of Jean-Georges Vongerichten in New York and Rick Bayless in Chicago.
Step right up to the counter and place your order at this cafeteria-style line where green chile con queso comes to you in a clay cup flanked by a raft of chips. The name suggests that chile will dominate — or at least participate equally. You will now have guessed that it doesn’t. There are just a few strands on top of the melted cheese mixture. That mixture, however, is an unexpectedly rewarding blend of sharp cheddar and avocado — smooth, creamy and in need only of a little more thermal heat and the zing of a few more rajitas de chile. This could easily become the perfect bar snack with one of Viva Villa’s craft or Mexican beers on tap or in bottles or cans. (The drink list is otherwise confined to wine and wine-based margaritas.)
The strong suit of two visits was decidedly the puerco en chile colorado. Served in a small cast-iron cazuelita, where the lustrous sauce was deep, dark and magical, the cubes of pork were tender and flavorful in their own right, and they were plentiful enough to satisfy. All cazuelitas (ribeye and cochinita pibil are among other possibilities) come with tortillas for your taco-making pleasure.
The street-size corn tortillas are way better than their big sisters, by the way, but understand: This is a DIY effort. The tortillas line the bottom of a canasta with the chopped mix ladled over them, jumbled nacho-style. More than some assembly is required. -RB
Il Forno
122 Nogalitos St., (210) 616-2198
Answer these questions three:
Does pizza complete you?
Are you a locavore?
When’s the last time you bit into something and thought, “This is it. I could die right now and be totally happy?”
If you answered “yes, yes, can’t remember” to the questions above, do yourself a giant favor and go to Il Forno, the latest concept by James Beard Award semifinalist Michael Sohocki.
Opened inside a former dive bar, the restaurant is rustic and thoroughly DIY from the wooden tables to the refurbished pews donated by a local church. The oven — il forno — itself was hand-crafted by Sohocki brick-by-brick and we’re not saying it makes the pies taste better, but it definitely doesn’t hurt. Pies range from $12 to $14, all are produced with house-made dough, cheese, cured meats as well as locally sourced veggies. The house-cured meats shine not just on the dough (and we’ll get to that in a second), but you won’t need them in the aptly named Big Bad Anti, an antipasto plate piled high with flatbread, and seasonal vegetables. A recent plate included a chickpea salad, cured ham, baked cheese topped with pumpkin seeds and grilled peppers. It’s hard to eclipse the excellent pies, but this board does just that.
But let’s get back to the pies. Made-to-order and bearing the perfect amount of bubbly char, the Neapolitan-style pizzas are delicate, pliable and piping hot. Dotted with cheese, fresh herbs, not-so-thinly sliced pepperoni or delicate prosciutto, the pizza soars and leave you wanting more. -JE
Sichuan House
3505 Wurzbach Road, Suite 102, (210) 509-9999, facebook.com/sichuaneats
At first glance, the tiny strip the restaurant is in isn’t compelling unless you’re into anime, need to rent a tuxedo, print a few signs or get a touch up on your Shellac. Not quite in the corner lot of this string of random shops sits Sichuan House, inside the former 4 Star Chinese Cuisine. Once inside, Sichuan House is a whole other story. Instead of tossing red lanterns every which way, Sichuan chooses demure décor and lets the food handle the rest. And boy does it.
Technically, Sichuan House was a recommendation itself from the folks at Hot Joy, who also pointed me in the direction of Kung Fu Noodle, a wee little joint off Bandera that delivers with fresh house-made noodles and dumplings. But instead of home-cooked Anhui province dishes, Sichuan House delivers regional favorites hailing from Sichuan, found in the southwest of China. The menu is a bit daunting, because unlike Kung Fu Noodle where there are maybe 10 things available to choose from, this one features several dozen items. Just when I was getting acquainted with the first menu, a page-worth of new winter items made an appearance.
My visits — and at this point there have been plenty — usually consist of bringing in one other person. This is by far my biggest mistake. Sichuan House should be enjoyed with several friends because dishes are all served family style. This runs the gamut from the 32-ounce soups to tofu in fermented bean sauce. It’s hard to beat a mix of soft tofu cubes, leafy napa cabbage and glass noodles floating in a light, fragrant chicken broth. The soup is more than enough for two but really could use a third slurper.
Try the shrimp and tofu (comfort food at its finest), the tea-smoked duck (which calls for both hands and definitely a side of the hot chili oil) and the scallions (tossed with cumin lamb).
All were noteworthy and delicious, but menu highlights definitely included the recommended dongpo braised pork belly that’s marinated, deep-fried, cubed and steamed. The end result is sweet, tender and a must-try. -JE
The Well
5539 UTSA Blvd., (210) 877-9099, thewellsanantonio.com
Quickly becoming the pragmatic San Antonian’s one-stop shop for all things well, the corner of I-10 and UTSA Boulevard has recently given its Wells Fargo a new neighbor in the form of The Well, an expansive watering hole intent on promoting “Drink, Dine and Dance.” Though together for only a short time, interplay between the two Wells began in earnest when The Well opened its doors to a slavering public, only to find its parking lot comically undersized. In a textbook display of the inveniam viam school of parking, patrons-to-be began blithely parking in clearly restricted areas, the first of which was the adjacent Wells Fargo. Still, parking woes are a common blight among new businesses (see: Golf, Top), and as growing pains go, should generally be considered a remediable snafu, if not welcome augur of popular reception.
Once ID’d and wristbanded, customers first encounter the amphitheatrical layout of the sprawling outdoor space and a synthetically grassed seating area with a performing stage abutting the back wall. A deck hugging the side of the bar leads visitors inside, where the clamorous, oaken interior splits into three arenas: an island bar, long bar and warehouse seating for diners (and on certain nights, dancers). In total, the restaurant, bar and dancehall patio clocks in at more than 20,000 square feet.
The food is on point. The menu, assembled by CIA graduate Chemo Barrera, hits unctuous notes without over-indulging, landing just on the right side of the home-style/kitsch divide. The waffles and chop, essentially nachos served with succulent beef over waffle fries, feeds three handily. The twice cooked wings, served with a house-made sauce of piri-piri peppers, and the Texas torpedoes, fried jalapenos stuffed with chorizo, each brought piquant, nuanced heat — comfortably below sweat-levels, but sharp enough to encourage a bracing sip of beer.
The alcohol selection has breadth, offering everything from local brews, to blush, to the “Red-Handed Bourbon,” a cocktail made with the local ichor Big Red. Expect more of the same from mixologist James Tivera who’s heading up the cocktail and beer selection for the expansive joint. You’ll definitely want to make this a haunt. -MS
