Burger du Jour with cheese, onion rings, and side of fries: $12
I’ve long claimed that topping a burger with fried sides, like onion rings, is a mistake. They add unwelcome grease, make the sandwich too tall to bite, and botch the meld of textures in this grilled American classic. So, when the Burger du Jour at Cullum’s Attaboy was served with rings last week, I balked at first. But I went for it anyhow, and I’m glad I did. The rings were crisp and covered with perfectly melted cheese that didn’t turn the breading into mush; the meat patty underneath was as tasty as ever, and the first bite told me there was no need to add condiments to this wonder on home made bun. For once, I passed on the house made pickles, and didn’t even add my habitual hot sauce. Making the choice of regular or sweet potato fries on the side was solved when I was offered a half-order of each—both are lightly battered, and sprinkled with savory herbs, a perfect riposte to the soft cheese and juicy meat. But has my mind changed regarding the legitimacy of fried-side burgers? Not unless they’re as carefully balanced as this one was.
Cullum’s Attaboy
Alamo Street Eat Bar
609 S Alamo
