Biga on the Banks

Bruce Auden continues to be the city's premier apostle of world-wise regional cooking, and there is no better place to get one's gastronomic feet and whistle wet than at the sinuous bar. Here, the noodle menu includes such enticements as chicken fried oysters with squid ink pasta and pancetta, and a red coconut curry with egg noodles, shrimp, and snap peas - which can be paired to appropriate wines by the glass from Biga's ample list. - Ron Bechtol
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