The Days of the Dead, now almost as popular in parts of the U.S. as in Mexico, are celebrated Nov. 1-2 and are shrouded in centuries-old customs. The construction of altars to lost loved ones is one such tradition. In addition to photos, special breads and sugar skulls, people often leave bottles of a deceased loved one's favorite liquid spirit on their altar in tribute. Tequila, of course, appears frequently.
Tequila plays a part in yet another practice, that of spilling some on the ground so that the returning spirits may partake of it without dealing with pesky bottle caps. If you're paying homage to several of the dear departed and happen to have a handle of tequila at hand, then by all means go for it. I prefer to think that toasting them with a special cocktail is a better, win-win way to go.
With that in mind, these San Antonio spots offer opportunities to get your dead drinks on.
The Esquire Bar was one of the first places in town to seriously stock high-end tequilas and mezcales, a practice that expanded to the even more atmospheric Downstairs bar at the River Walk level. The Curandero's Prediction at Downstairs is an especially appropriate seasonal drink that makes use of both Abasolo Mexican Corn Whiskey and Nixta Elote Liqueur with its uncanny nose and taste of fresh masa. La Niña de Mis Ojos employs the Esquire's special-barrel-pick tequila, pairing it with Chartreuse, lime and honey. A list of some 25 agave spirits in one- or two-ounce shots is also at your disposal. Prices range from $6 for an ounce of an emsamble mezcal to $60 for 2 ounces of Fuenteseca Extra Añejo Tequila—that last one is only to toast your favorite uncle if he left you a substantial sum in his will.
To get into the spirit at Cuishe's bar in St. Paul Square, it will help to read its retelling of the legend of Mayahuel. The story involves drunken rabbits, graves and a wicked grandmother. The menu begins with cantaritos, cocktails served in various sizes of clay cups. Rounds of curated shots, frozen or infused, follow. Next we come to what Cuishe calls "Mexologia," which is further broken down into Mezcaleria and Tequileria cocktails. From the mezcal side, let's say that the Puebla — blood orange mixed with Madre Mezcal, ginger beer and presented with a Chamoy rim — is especially appropriate. But there's also no reason not to settle on the Oaxaca — named for one of the best places to witness DOD celebrations — and its mix of Wahaka Mezcal, tamarind and a mole-salt rim. Tequila-based options include the Xalapa with Jose Cuervo, fresh pomegranate and lemon topped with a celebratory hit of cava. A huge shot list of select tequilas and mezcales, plus other agave-based spirits such as sotol, bacanora and raicilla, rounds out the menu. Go with friends and consider ordering compatible snacks. Your late abuela would surely approve.
The bar at Mixtli — unlike the restaurant, no reservations are required — is small but mighty. Think of the space itself as a kind of altar to the spirits (you chose whether liquid or ghostly) of Mexico. Most of the base ingredients, whether used straight from the bottle or modified through techniques such as fat washing, will be ones most of us don't regularly have on our own back bars, but that's what makes this such an adventure. Thinking of departed friends with exotic tastes, perhaps an appropriately named Raices Antiguas will fit our bill. It's composed of MG Mezcal, distilled pechuga style with gin botanicals, a rum-like charanda from Uruapan, palo santo bitters, lavender and lemon — and it's both refreshing and complex. Among the House Classics, think the incense that might sometimes swirl around an altar when sipping the Smoked Old Fashioned with corn butter-washed tequila, mezcal and mole bitters.
I left Mixtli's bar inspired to concoct a cocktail of my own — but one that didn't use especially exotic ingredients. If you're inspired to make it, it's likely you may have to buy only one bottle you don't already have: Ancho Reyes ancho liqueur. It's great with agave spirits, gin, even rum. Here it is:
Death and Calacas
1 ½ oz. Tequila, silver or reposado
1 oz. mezcal
½ oz. Ancho Reyes
3/4 oz. lime juice
½ oz. simple syrup or agave nectar
A slice of lime peel for garnish
Add all ingredients to an ice-filled tin and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled coupe with a Tajin-dipped rim if desired. Squeeze lime peel over drink and drop in.
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