Nobody, not even San Antonio's arch-nemesis up I-35, would argue that our city lacks for quality taquerias. Sometimes it seems as though they're on every other corner.
Perhaps due to our abundance of taco riches, it can be a little harder to pin down those which truly stand out — either for their unique offerings or just for doing the tried-and-true extremely well.
But in the past few months, three home-grown and distinctly different places have made an impression. Let's explore.
Tacos al Carbón Cabrón first came to my attention because of its name, "cabron" being one of those useful slang words that can be either pungently vulgar or jokingly familiar. The layout of the joint, on San Pedro not too far south from North Star Mall, is unique in its own right: the kitchen occupies a trailer parked outside the strip-center address, and the dining room is located inside the adjacent building. The layout works just fine, perhaps in part due to the simple menu: mostly tacos of carne asada, pollo asado and carne adobada.
When the server at the counter asks if you want your tacos "loaded," the answer is yes. This means they'll arrive piled with guacamole, cilantro, onion and queso fresco. It also means that the adobada marinated in a blend of chiles, onion, vinegar and spices will look pretty much like the simpler asada, but taste is another matter.
Tacos al Carbón Cabrón's unusually varied salsa bar — the salsas are "cabronas" in case there's any worry about gender equality — is a must-visit before tucking into any and all tacos. Those labeled "Hot!" aren't kidding, and don't forget to check out the onions pickled in tangy vinegar with oregano and chiles habaneros. Even though the onions may be culturally more associated with the adobada, put them on everything. The meaty charro beans go with everything too.
If I had to pick a favorite at Tacos al Carbón Cabrón, it would be the carne asada in its tricked-out mulita form — a layer of toasty, melted cheese forms a waterproof barrier between filling and tortilla, and a griddled chile güero is an unexpected bonus. I think I'd prefer the adobada in bigger, moister chunks, but the chicken holds its own against the beef, if not the feistiest salsa roja.
It's a fool's errand to try to pick a favorite among the offerings at San Taco, a Five Points operation whose major move is a battery of lidded clay cazuelas cradling myriad guisados — a dozen, to be exact. The clay vessels are displayed sunk into a counter just inside the entry, and if you arrive at a slack time, say before 11:30 a.m., you should feel free to ask someone to lift a few of the lids. That won't make choosing any easier, but it's fun to be able to sniff as well as look.
I've tried seven out of 12, and there's not a dog in the bunch. I will, however, call your attention to the unusually good rajas con elote, the succulent trocito de puerco verde and the out-of- the-ordinary chicharron prensado.
I'll also suggest ordering the even more distinctive tamachile — the Cronut, or maybe the turducken, of tamales. I take exception to it being delivered in a tight swaddling of plastic wrap, however. The artificial wrapping seems like cheating, and it's hard to remove.
Otherwise, what you get is a husk-wrapped tamal filling stuffed inside a seriously charred poblano. And that filling isn't ordinary. It's studded with corn kernels and enhanced with cheese and crema. While that may sound like a heavy combination, it's unexpectedly light and almost fluffy. The plate is served with your choice of guisado on the side. Nopalitos con guajillo would keep it all vegetarian.
Be prepared to choose quickly at Taquitos West Avenue. Once you've navigated the often-long but always fast-moving line, you'll give your order directly at the kitchen window. It will be prepared as you wait. Briefly. (To keep things moving, you pay when leaving on a kind of honor system.) Next, proceed to a bolted-down seat.
The menu is lettered on the glass separating the kitchen from the dining room, and it consists of six daily items: chorizo, tripas, bistek, lengua, cabeza and suadero. Al pastor is confined to Thursday through Sunday. The chorizo, less greasy than is often the case, was especially good, and I can always be had by the firm but pliant texture of lengua.
Tripas aren't normally the first thing I think of to order but they, too, were exceptional. Suadero, sometimes referred to as a smoother form of brisket, didn't stand out as much as I'd hoped, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't order it again on Taquitos West Avenue's tender corn tortillas.
Tacos al Carbón Cabrón
6653 San Pedro Ave. | (210) 267-9492 | tacosalcarboncabron.com
11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, noon- 7 p.m. Sunday
San Taco
114 Fredericksburg Road | (210) 314-3099 | instagram.com/san_taco114/
8 a.m.-6:30 p.m. daily
Taquitos West Avenue
2818 West Ave. | (210) 525-9888
10 a.m.-midnight p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-3 a.m. Friday-Saturday
Subscribe to SA Current newsletters.
Follow us: Apple News | Google News | NewsBreak | Reddit | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter| Or sign up for our RSS Feed
